Everything you need to know about Puglia

26 August 2019

Puglia - First thing to know before you start your trip: if you set foot here, you won't be willing to return back home! The Puglia region is the heel of Italy's boot. It's an explosion of culture, gastronomy, history and breathtaking scenery. A large part of the region benefits from natural parks covered with olive trees dating back thousands of years. You can also find many historical masserias. The region is until now relatively untouched by mass tourism. As local friends have said: "You shouldn't tell people to come here! You have to say that there are thieves, snakes, that it is very dry". Simply because everyone who sets foot in this region falls in love with it.

If you're planning a trip to Puglia, make sure you take the time i needs! Clearly, you should not limit yourself to one city or region. You have to move from town to town without staying more than two or three days. And make a big tour because there are so many beautiful things to see and regions to explore. I would say that to get a good first impression of Puglia you should go for at least 10 days, 15 being the ideal.

Find out where to go in Puglia, the best addresses and all my tips to enjoy the most beautiful region of Italy, in my opinion, in this blog post!

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Where to go in Puglia : The different regions

Puglia Regions in Italy are is divided into several regions: Bari, Brindisi, Taranto, Lecce (or Salento), Andria and Foggia. As my husband is from Salento, we have always located our trips in this region. However, we also discovered the region of Brindisi and Bari. Salento is not very touristy. The mass of tourists stay near the airports of Bari and Brindisi. Therefore, the tourist economy has rather developed in these regions. So, Salento is quite unspoilt, and very Italian. If you don't speak Italian, it is difficult to make yourself understood in the region. Although hotels and restaurants are increasingly speaking English. The Bari area is much more touristy but still beautiful. Prices are also higher in this part of Puglia.

A bit of history on the "heel of the Italian boot"

Puglia first experienced a Greek period in antiquity, before the region was invaded by the Romans a few centuries before Christ. The Latins developed the region for several hundred years. The fall of the Roman Empire led to a succession of invasions and wars in Puglia. The region fell under Byzantine rule before passing into the hands of the Normans. This marked the beginning of the feudal period for the region.

That's only a quick overview of the region's history, but why am I telling you all this? Simply because in Puglia, the vestiges of this complex history are very much in evidence in the architecture. Sometimes you'll admire the white buildings of a Greek-style village, sometimes a Turkish palace and sometimes you'll enjoy the winding streets of a Latin town. This architectural diversity makes the visits very interesting and makes you want to learn more about the region's past.

Getting around Puglia

Getting there

To get to the area, there are two airports: Bari and Brindisi. The two are not very far from each other (a large hour's drive) so choose your flights above all according to price and not where you are going in Puglia. Having traveled via both, I would say that flights to Brindisi are generally cheaper. The easiest and most economical way is to fly with Ryanair. During the summer holidays, ticket prices rise quite quickly, but if you do it in advance, you can get good deals. I paid €150 the first time I was, but €500 this year when booking the day before we left (which itches a little onsidering it was quite a lot for a Ryanair flight).

On "site"

Once there, the easiest way to get around is to rent a car. But beware of scams! Last year we were heavily ripped off by Sixt at Bari airport. Our car was not available, supposedly we had one of the same size for the same price. In reality, we had a trunk twice as small and therefore our suitcases did not fit in it. They also told us that the insurance taken out on the Ryanair site was not sufficient, and that more was needed… So we ended up paying €1200 for 10 days of rental. And the story is not over! Since when I get home, I notice that I have been charged another 100€ more. Six months later, they again charged me €62 several times. Impossible to reach someone on site to demand an explanation or have supporting documents.

This year everything went well. We rented the car from another company (Luxauto), and we did not take any insurance when booking online. On site, we were offered additional insurance which we refused (these are only enough to reduce the deductible from 2500 to 1500€ and the insurance costs 600€… the calculation is quickly done). So we paid 470€ for 13 days and got a bigger car model than expected. To see if in 6 months my card isn't charged again, I'll let you know!

If you plan to stay in the same hotel for your entire stay or to avoid the hassle and trouble I went through, you can also book a private transfer from Bari airport or a transfer from Brindisi airport to at your hotel, it's up to you!

The italian driving style

Of course, driving in Italy is not easy and the driving of Italians is quite original. The best thing is not to stress yourself out and to be very vigilant. For example, the entry lanes on the highways are very very short, which sometimes makes it difficult to fit into traffic. So be careful!

Also be aware that some city centers are car-free. But it's not always well displayed or crossed out. There are cameras that will take a picture of the plate of your car, see that you are not a resident. It could cost you dearly in fines. So find out well before leaving for a city where you are allowed to park. In general, the yellow strips on the ground are reserved for local residents. The blue bands delimit the paying zones. The white stripes allow everyone to park for free. And a sign indicates when you enter the waterfront area.

Of course, there are also buses but I have never taken them so I can't tell you properly on this subject.

Puglia Italy: What budget to prepare for a trip to Puglia

Puglia is a destination that can be visited in "luxury mode" as well on a budget. There are as many magnificent pricey hotels, as sublime Airbnbs and Bed and Breakfasts at much more advantageous prices. In this destination, any type of profile can be found there.

Price level of activities, food etc… the Bari region tends to be more expensive than Salento. Where your meal costs you 20€ for two in Salento, it will cost you 30€ in the north, which obviously remains quite accessible. As I told you, the Bari region is much more touristy, so prices increase accordingly.

Tasty and local specialties to try in Puglia

Some must-try specialties in the region

Pittule salentine : specialty of Salento, these are small fried pancakes, stuffed with either fish, meat, vegetables... and sometimes no stuffing and it's just as good! They are normally served during parties but you can find them almost everywhere as an anti-pasti.
Panzzerotti : specialty of Bari, these are pizza dough turnovers stuffed in various ways. It's similar to a miniature calzone pizza except that it's fried and not baked - and again it's a pure delight! To test absolutely.
Olives : you cannot miss the wonderful olives that the region offers. Big crush for the "candite". These olives that we were able to taste near Santa Cesarea Terme, which are quite sweet, we ate them for dessert (you can buy them at the Saturday morning market in Maglie). Of course we don't even need to specify how incredible olive oils are, each one more delicious than the other.
Burrata : I can assure you that once you have tasted the burrata of Puglia, you will never be able to enjoy it anywhere else! It's not a myth, it's divine.
Orecchiette : the type of pasta that you will eat with all kinds of toppings in the region!
Cime di rape : I don't really know how to translate this vegetable into English or French. No one could give me the equivalent name in English/French! It is between broccoli and spinach and often they offer it with orecchiette. It has a rather pronounced taste, personally I don't like it that much but it is one "regional" product to be tried !
Taralli : some are always offered with your aperitivo. These are small salted biscuits in the shape of fairly thick rings, to be enjoyed with a small glass of wine before dinner.

The wines

Primitivo di Manduria : Very round, slightly pronounced, to me the best red wine in the region. Ultimate crush on the San Marzano Anniversero 62.
Negroamaro : Fruitier than primitivo, Negroamaro wines are also delicious. In love with the Paleo Leo.
Locorotondo : If you are a fan of dry white wine, this white wine from the trulli region is delicious.

Road trip Pouilles l'itinéraire parfait pour 10 jours dans le sud de l'Italie

Must-visit cities during a trip to Puglia

I'll write a detailed bog post by city in the following weeks but here is already an overview of the cities not to be missed during a stay in Puglia. The best addresses are not in this article but you can find them already on my mapstr while waiting for me to finish the blogpost of the respective cities.

Day and night - The italian way of life

As a reminder, the Italians have a different rhythm of life from ours. They get up at 5 a.m., and take a siesta from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. So if you go to visit a city in the afternoon, you will often find it deserted and most shops and restaurants will be closed. I therefore advise you to plan your visits at the end of the day or in the morning. On my behalf, I like to go to the cities already at 4:30 p.m./5 p.m. because they are still empty and it is very pleasant. Afterwards, around 6:30 p.m. you can have a little aperitif before heading out to dinner later (the restaurants do not open before 7:30 p.m./8 p.m.).

Bari and Brindisi Region

In genereal for the towns in this region, I would say one day is enough to visit. I advise you to sleep in the countryside in a trullo, a building typical of the region, and to hit the road every day at the end of the day to discover a city and have a bite to eat in the evening. You can also spend the day at the beach because the region is full of very nice beaches, although very touristy.

Ostuni : My favorite city in the region! It is an all-white city, the citta bianca, perched on top of 3 hills and it is a real nugget. The historic heart of the city is full of small alleys and stairs that go in all directions. In the end, don't follow plans. Let your senses guide you and you will come across lots of great places and a lot of super cool restaurants and bars.
Matera : it is a city that was built directly into the limestone rock of the region. Overflowing with caves, underground palaces, riddled with galleries connecting the caves to each other and complex staircases, this thousand-year-old city has a lot to tell. The show is breathtaking and the site was also elected European Capital of Culture in 2019 (it had already been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993). To be sure to discover all its treasures, it is also possible to book a visit to the city! You should know that before being considered so gloriously, the city was before one of the most "shameful" in Italy because of the extreme poverty of the region. People lived in caves, without water, electricity, and without a sewage system. The city is often called "Jerusalem of the West", because of its cave houses and the many religious events that take place there. Celebrating Christmas there is magical. An exceptional visit to do ABSOLUTELY.
Polignano A mare : For once, we are now on the seashore. This city is built on the side of limestone rocks, the buildings plunging directly into the turbulent waters of the Adriatic. It is especially famous for its "cala porto" creek, wedged between several cliffs and buildings of the old town. Again getting lost in the streets is the best thing to do! Unfortunately already this year I saw the difference compared to last year. The flow of tourists begins to increase sharply.
Alberobello : The famous village of trulli! The trulli are typical buildings of the region, which were originally built by farmers in the fields. At the time they were only stones piled on top of each other, in order to be able to assemble and disassemble them easily. These accommodations were very precarious. Nowadays most have been renovated while keeping the cachet of yesteryear to offer typical accommodation to tourists. Almost none have kept their former functions. As a couple oor as a group - do not hesitate to visit the city in the company of a French-speaking guide who will reveal all its secrets to you. As for Alberobello, I would say it's not one of my favorite tours. Even if it's very pretty, it's giv some Disneyland-vibes: there are only tourists and all the shops in the small village are clearly tourist traps, which really lowers any charming atmosphere. To me, it is better to sleep in the countryside in trulli, and go see Alberobello once because it clearly is on the "Puglia To Do List", but a few hours are more than enough.
Monopoli : A very pleasant visit with far fewer tourists than in other cities! We wandered around aimlessly. Then we ate a little bit and our visit ended there but I think there are some nice things to visit like the castle of Charles V and the church of Santa Maria l'Amalfitana.
Bari : We stayed several days in Bari on our first trip. We really liked this city, especially for its lively nightlife. During the day is not very interesting so we mainly spent our time at the beach, before returning at the end of the afternoon to the city to enjoy the atmosphere. There are a lot of delicious restaurants, and finishing your trip with a few days there to reconnect with the bustle of a big city is a good idea. To soak up the history of the city while strolling through its streets, free tours are organized, a good way to discover Bari!
Grottaglie : The city of ceramics! There you can admire the regional know-how and buy magnificent pieces. We made some purchases, notably at Nicola Fasano (and you can also have your purchases sent directly to your home for 27€).

The Salento region, or native Italy

In Salento, we dive into deep and ultra-typical Italy. There are less activities in this much quieter area, but life is much more authentic there than in the north, and to me, this is where you eat the best food in all of Puglia! The region is also full of coves and much calmer beaches than in the north (however there is not much sand, the beaches are all very rocky). There are many natural spectacles to watch, such as the Torre Sant Andrea, with its limestone rocks devoured by the sea, the Grotta della Poesia San Foca (there are many Italian teenagers who come to play and dive there), the canale del Ciolo, Torre del Orso, Marina serra di tricase (a beautiful natural swimming pool) and so many others …

Lecce : a magnificent city, sometimes nicknamed "the Florence of the South", and a real treasure unknown to tourists. It is full of baroque churches sumptuously built using “Lecce stone”, an ultra malleable limestone. The city experienced a dazzling economic spring in the 14th century and many buildings were built in the Baroque style by the monks and nobles of the city. There are also several buildings of antiquity, including two magnificent Roman amphitheatres, and some vestiges of the Middle Ages. I also wrote an article about the ideal day in this city if you plan to go there.
Otranto : on the road, stop at Bauxite lake. An old abandoned quarry where an emerald lake has formed lost in the middle of a blood-red hill, almost a mini canyon! Once in town, it is good to get lost and let yourself be guided by your steps. The city is a little unknown to tourists and the visit is all the more pleasant (it is located so far south of Puglia that people generally do not venture that far). It is absolutely necessary to visit the cathedral, where the skeletons of the 800 martyrs of Otranto are "exhibited" in large windows. During the Turkish rule, all those who refused to renounce their Christian faith were beheaded and their bones were subsequently placed in the cathedral and canonized by the pope.
Santa Cesarea Terme : don't let you stop by the rotten egg smell that reigns in part of the small town, obviously due to natural terms. Not much to do in town, but we appreciate the beauty of the Turkish palace which overlooks the city (unfortunately we cannot visit it, it is abandoned). And we're going to spend the day at Bagno Marino Archi beach, again perched on a rock between beautiful cliffs. Even if part of the beach is still accessible, the landscape is somewhat damaged by work in progress, because erosion doing its job, part of the cliff threatens to collapse. In the port next door, in Castro, you can rent small boats without a license to go around the coves around. These are not boats without a license like with us, here the boats you can rent go super fast which gives the impression of doing a real boat day (see Nautica Red Coral Yacht Charters, 90€ per day).
Gallipoli : I didn't really like the visit. I would say it is a city to go to if you want to party! It's pretty, but very noisy, and a little badly attended. But if you want to have a fiesta evening and a day in noisy beach clubs, this is the place to be! Obviously, my feelings may not be yours, so don't hesitate to visit it with a guide and make your own opinion!

With this blogpost, you therefore have a first glimpse of all there is to do in this region that I literally fell in love with. This article will be supplemented gradually by other articles on each city, with accommodation, good addresses and tutti quanti.

Spending a day at the beach in the Salento

Bagno Marino Archi ⏤ Santa Cesarea Terme ⏤ $ : this beach is under the rocks, really a super nice place to spend the day. The restaurant is also very good. You can therefore spend a day there without traveling, which is rather pleasant. On the other hand, I recommend that you get up early to get there, space is limited and quickly taken by storm. Only paid daybeds.
Swim Liberi ⏤ Andrano ⏤ $ : Possibility of lating down either without a daybed or with daybeds (the prices are very affordable, around 10€ per day depending on the season).
SamBoat ⏤ ionian coast ⏤ $ : If you are more comfortable on the water than on the sand, this is for you! Every year I book a boat through this platform to spend a day at sea. It's an incredible experience and it allows you to have another point of view on the side. You will find all the information for renting a boat in Puglia in this article.

Must-do beaches in the heart of Puglia

Lido Bambu ⏤ Monopoli ⏤ $$ : great beach to spend the day! The staff is super nice, and the restaurant delicious.
Coco ⏤ Monopoli ⏤ $$$$ : more expensive and more "hype" beach, not super pleasant staff, and not so great restaurant. But we still had a good day because the beach is beautiful. The prices remain irritating!

Places and spots to visit in Puglia

Grotta Zinzulusa — Castro : This network of caves by the sea offers a breathtaking spectacle! You can admire colorful rock formations but above all marine fauna.
Torre Sant’Andrea — Otranto : The famous cliffs are easily accessible! You can park in a car park and then continue your visit to the site. This magnificent point of view is clearly worth the detour! I advise you not to plan to stay too long, and to take a one-day tour of the different beaches and cliffs to see.
Cave di Bauxite — Otranto : This colorful place is a must for hikers! This place is the perfect place to get lost in nature and be able to disconnect 100%.
Torre dell’Orso — Otranto : This magnificent beach will allow you to rest in a dream setting!
Grotta della Poesia — Otranto : This cave is surrounded by turquoise water. Equipped with a mask, you can dive and discover the wonders of the underwater world.

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